Vogue | Why Morningbird Is Upstate New York’s Most Exciting New Restaurant

In the last decade or so, New York’s Hudson Valley has witnessed an influx of impressive and noteworthy restaurant openings from former New York City chefs and restaurateurs migrating upstate, a trend that only intensified during the pandemic as a surge of urbanites decamped for greater open spaces and a closer proximity to Mother Nature. While there’s been no shortage of buzzy new places to dine, the lack of diversity amongst the crowd, however, is apparent. But at Morningbird, in the quiet, Columbia County village of Kinderhook, Chef Hannah Wong is making food that tells a different story, from fresh mochi donuts with a pronounced bounce, to an Instagram-worthy Vietnamese Caesar salad, colorfully composed of chicories, watermelon radish, and mint.

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